Anyone have any tips for getting the drive sprocket nut off. Mine will not budge no matter what i do. Hits a bite point then just slips round. getting very
frustrated as want to get new chain on and get out in the nice weather.
0 Kudo
Add Reply
New Topic
- Introduction
- General
- Diesels and Lawnmowers (Bike racing n things)
- Moans'n'Groans
- Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
- Post of the week
- Techie Stuff
- All things BMF
- Events, Meets, Ride outs etc
- For Sale & Wanted
- Messages for Users
- Fazer hints and tips
- FZ6
- Mods, mods and more Mods
- Legal Pleadings
- Insurance (Bastids!!!!!)
- Zorsts, cans, pipes!
- Tyres
- Touring, Rideout routes, GPS - Guides & Questions
- Training & riding advice
- The Laboratory !
- Archive (old crap)
stubborn drive sprocket
| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
 ManxAndy |
stubborn drive sprocket |
Lead | |
|
Club Racer Posts: 277 (08/06/2008 10:12:20) Club Racer |
|
||
|
ghostbiker |
|||
|
Posts: 273 (08/06/2008 10:40:39) Muck Spreader |
the simplest way is useing a air impact or a good electric impact driver.
|
||
|
Tmation |
|||
|
GP Hero Posts: 981 (08/06/2008 11:05:57) WSB Pack Hound |
What's slipping? I assume you have moved the locking part of the tab washer off the sprocket nut, and not trying to fit a socket over both. Get someone to
sit on the bike and put it in gear plus push hard on the rear brake (oh and hold the front on as well), then using the correct size socket and your longest
braker bar it should undo easily.
|
||
|
ManxAndy |
|||
|
Club Racer Posts: 278 (08/06/2008 11:27:43) Club Racer |
yep moved the locking part away - tried 2 methods person on bike as above and also large metal rod (padded) between wheel and swingarm - using 36mm impact
socket and thing will not budge a mm.
|
||
|
Tmation |
|||
|
GP Hero Posts: 983 (08/06/2008 11:36:21) WSB Pack Hound |
Have you tried moving it the other way, its not a left handed thread is it?
|
||
|
ManxAndy |
|||
|
Club Racer Posts: 279 (08/06/2008 11:54:45) Club Racer |
nope followed the thread and am def trying to undo - i wonder if someone has used locktite or something on it when it was last changed
|
||
|
ManxAndy |
|||
|
Club Racer Posts: 280 (08/06/2008 11:55:51) Club Racer |
the longest breaker bar I have is 16"
|
||
|
old son |
|||
|
WSB Pack Hound Posts: 465 (08/06/2008 15:02:41) Club Racer |
Not long enough!!! I ended up using 24" bar and it was fu*king tight. The nut is not very thick and you worry the socket will ride off. Use a longer bar
and it will move.
|
||
|
bash62 |
|||
|
Club Racer Posts: 257 (08/06/2008 18:10:52) Weekend Warrior |
had same trouble on mates zrx had a 4 ft bar on it and wouldn't budge. used impact gun and touch the trigger and undone staight away
cheers bash |
||
|
Tmation |
|||
|
GP Hero Posts: 985 (08/06/2008 18:17:23) WSB Pack Hound |
Maybe some sort of locktite on the nut and that may break with an impact wrench, do you have one to use with the impact socket?
16" is just a tooth pick, we use 3' ones at work and hand tight = about 100ftlb |
||
|
deefer666 |
|||
|
Posts: 5002 (09/06/2008 19:45:42) Oh yes I am
|
I just use an air impact wrench and whack the PSI up to max on the compressor regulator..... If it has been loctited then heat it first (gently) Heat will
destroy the loctites bond
|
||
|
KARL SMITH |
|||
|
GP Hero Posts: 1064 (13/06/2008 11:40:30) WSB Pack Hound |
Did you get it off then?
|
||
|
essiec |
|||
|
GP Hero Posts: 1147 (13/06/2008 11:59:34) GP Hero |
You have my sympathies if someone has put red loctite on the nut before - I've got a 2nd hand enduro rear wheel that needs a new sprocket and the nuts have
all been red Loctited. As I can't get a socket past the spokes the only way is to use a ring spanner and the nuts are rounding off even with good fitting
ones.....
Only answer I think is to grind the nut off and fit new sprocket bolts and nuts. |
||
|
KARL SMITH |
|||
|
GP Hero Posts: 1069 (14/06/2008 19:56:35) WSB Pack Hound |
Getting bugged now did you get the bloody nut off ?
|
||
|
chaparral02 |
|||
|
WSB Pack Hound Posts: 15 (15/06/2008 01:05:46) |
essiec wrote: You could try a Nut Splitter
|
||
|
ghostbiker |
|||
|
Posts: 290 (15/06/2008 03:11:27) Muck Spreader |
yup nut spliter or carefull work with a dremal will sort the sprocket nuts out. nice and easy to get to as well.
|
||
|
The Grim Reaper |
|||
|
WSB Pack Hound Posts: 3 (16/06/2008 10:15:52) |
I would hesitate in using a nut splitter, it's a last resort as far as I'm concerned, anything that destroys the nut is taking a rsik with the
integrity of the thread on the sprocket shaft.
The worst I have encountered, having done hundreds of C&S kits, is a ZX7R which has a tightening torque setting of 150NM. I used a 3 ft breaker bar with a scaffold pole over the end, a solid (rag wrapped) plank of wood through the rear wheel (metal, even in rags, can mark the soft alloy of a sports bike wheel) and a heavy mate sat on the bike to support it. The length of the lever and quality of the socket (buy a 6 point, do not use 12) will see it come undone eventually. If you're anywhere near Southamton, let me know, I have tools that will do it. Cheers Grim |
||
Add Reply
- Introduction
- General
- Diesels and Lawnmowers (Bike racing n things)
- Moans'n'Groans
- Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
- Post of the week
- Techie Stuff
- All things BMF
- Events, Meets, Ride outs etc
- For Sale & Wanted
- Messages for Users
- Fazer hints and tips
- FZ6
- Mods, mods and more Mods
- Legal Pleadings
- Insurance (Bastids!!!!!)
- Zorsts, cans, pipes!
- Tyres
- Touring, Rideout routes, GPS - Guides & Questions
- Training & riding advice
- The Laboratory !
- Archive (old crap)
