| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
ManxAndy |
stubborn drive sprocket |
Lead | |
|
Anyone have any tips for getting the drive sprocket nut off. Mine will not budge no matter what i do. Hits a bite point then just slips round. getting very
frustrated as want to get new chain on and get out in the nice weather.
|
|||
ghostbiker |
|||
|
the simplest way is useing a air impact or a good electric impact driver.
|
|||
Tmation |
|||
|
What's slipping? I assume you have moved the locking part of the tab washer off the sprocket nut, and not trying to fit a socket over both. Get someone to
sit on the bike and put it in gear plus push hard on the rear brake (oh and hold the front on as well), then using the correct size socket and your longest
braker bar it should undo easily.
|
|||
ManxAndy |
|||
|
yep moved the locking part away - tried 2 methods person on bike as above and also large metal rod (padded) between wheel and swingarm - using 36mm impact
socket and thing will not budge a mm.
|
|||
Tmation |
|||
|
Have you tried moving it the other way, its not a left handed thread is it?
|
|||
ManxAndy |
|||
|
nope followed the thread and am def trying to undo - i wonder if someone has used locktite or something on it when it was last changed
|
|||
ManxAndy |
|||
|
the longest breaker bar I have is 16"
|
|||
old son |
|||
|
Not long enough!!! I ended up using 24" bar and it was fu*king tight. The nut is not very thick and you worry the socket will ride off. Use a longer bar
and it will move.
|
|||
bash62 |
|||
|
had same trouble on mates zrx had a 4 ft bar on it and wouldn't budge. used impact gun and touch the trigger and undone staight away
cheers bash |
|||
Tmation |
|||
|
Maybe some sort of locktite on the nut and that may break with an impact wrench, do you have one to use with the impact socket?
16" is just a tooth pick, we use 3' ones at work and hand tight = about 100ftlb |
|||
deefer666 |
|||
|
I just use an air impact wrench and whack the PSI up to max on the compressor regulator..... If it has been loctited then heat it first (gently) Heat will
destroy the loctites bond
|
|||
KARL SMITH |
|||
|
Did you get it off then?
|
|||
essiec |
|||
|
You have my sympathies if someone has put red loctite on the nut before - I've got a 2nd hand enduro rear wheel that needs a new sprocket and the nuts have
all been red Loctited. As I can't get a socket past the spokes the only way is to use a ring spanner and the nuts are rounding off even with good fitting
ones.....
Only answer I think is to grind the nut off and fit new sprocket bolts and nuts. |
|||
KARL SMITH |
|||
|
Getting bugged now did you get the bloody nut off ?
|
|||
chaparral02 |
|||
essiec wrote: You could try a Nut Splitter
|
|||
ghostbiker |
|||
|
yup nut spliter or carefull work with a dremal will sort the sprocket nuts out. nice and easy to get to as well.
|
|||
The Grim Reaper |
|||
|
I would hesitate in using a nut splitter, it's a last resort as far as I'm concerned, anything that destroys the nut is taking a rsik with the
integrity of the thread on the sprocket shaft.
The worst I have encountered, having done hundreds of C&S kits, is a ZX7R which has a tightening torque setting of 150NM. I used a 3 ft breaker bar with a scaffold pole over the end, a solid (rag wrapped) plank of wood through the rear wheel (metal, even in rags, can mark the soft alloy of a sports bike wheel) and a heavy mate sat on the bike to support it. The length of the lever and quality of the socket (buy a 6 point, do not use 12) will see it come undone eventually. If you're anywhere near Southamton, let me know, I have tools that will do it. Cheers Grim |
|||